Yes, B&B lugs can be repaired. And since replacements are expensive and virtually unobtainium, this may be the way to go for many. The lugs in the following photos were, for the most part, badly cracked and were repaired for two Rogers cocktail drum outfits. One kit I play regularly was finished in February, 2008. The kit has been stored under tension since then. After four years, there have been no issues. The process is somewhat arduous but worth the effort. Lugs with broken tabs will work, as long as at least half the tab is intact. It's a three step process. Here's what you need: > 5/8" x 24 #10 zinc plated machine screws and nuts. These are used for the lugs with broken tabs. > Propoxy20 Steel Epoxy Putty > JB Weld (Quick Dry) > Lacquer thinner or acetone (lacquer thinner preferred) > Razor blade > Grinder or metal file > An old B&B lug nut and tension rod. These are used together as a stencil/embossing tool. WARNING! Lacquer Thinner and Acetone are very powerful chemicals. They'll melt some plastics they touch, they are highly flammable, they stink to high heaven, and the fumes are dangerous to your lungs, and brain cells! What's more, they're not good for your hands, either. Work in a well ventilated area! You will use these to clean the putty off of the outside of the lugs. First thing to do is thoroughly clean the lugs inside and out with lacquer thinner. You'll need to be sure that no oil or dirt is present, as that will inhibit the Propoxy from bonding. Step One: Work the Propoxy20 putty into a lug, primarily the corners, and a thin layer through the middle. Use an extra lug nut and tensioner as a stenciling or embossing tool (see below). This tool is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT, as you have to be sure that the lug nut and spring fit properly in place after the putty dries. Stenciling inside the lug end creates a shouldered, reinforced bearing area to left and right of the lug nut when it's fitted in place on assembly. This is what strengthens the original design. Remember that the amount of putty to use is thicker at the four corners of the lug, and is just a light coating through the center of the lug where the spring floats. TIP: the Propoxy20 likes to stick to your fingers as much as it does the brass. Use lacquer thinner to "model" the putty, like the way you use water to model clay. (Wear gloves, of course!) Here's a repairable lug, my first attempt at a the lug nut stencil or embossing tool, a replacement screw and a ground hex nut. Yes, sometimes the hex nuts need to be altered because of the extremely tight tolerances between the lug nut and tab. Note that I pushed a wad of duct tape through the lug nut to create the embossing tool (again, my first try, later replaced with a better version). This serves two purposes. (1) It acts as a handle and also helps push excess putty out of the lug hole; (2) It protects the lug nut threads so that it doesn't become worthless. Side note: I later dumped the use of the duct tape embossing tool method, and instead sacrificed a lugnut and tension rod. I cold welded a hex nut to the end of the lug nut, thereby creating a tool that would both stencil the shouldered area where the hole is, and also emboss a slot at the other end of a single-hole B&B lug to allow the spring to seat. Note that what you see below is the assembled tool. To use the tool, you unthread the lugnut first, so now the tool is in two pieces. (1) Push a wad of putty into the lug, which will temporarily cover the tensioner hole. (2) Push the tensioner through the hole from the outside, forcing the putty out of the way. (3) Thread the lugnut part of the tool onto the tensioner from the inside of the lug. Pull the lugnut back into its normal working position, as it would sit in a functioning lug. This will force the putty out of the way of the path of the lugnut. (3) Wiggle and twist the lugnut left and right and ram it back and forth to create a path and loose seat for the permanent lugnut to rest after the putty has dried. View after step 1, before cementing the nut above the tab of a badly cracked lug: Step two: For lugs with broken tabs, you'll need the 5/8" x 24 #10 machine screws and a matching nut to replace the 1/2" x 24 screws. Use JB Weld to fasten the nut in place above the broken tab. The JB Weld is gooier than the steel putty and encircles the nut more efficiently. Use a screw to align everything properly as the assembly dries. Step Three: Use more epoxy putty to seal in the nut to the shell, which also adds additional strength. Add even more putty (as shown) to reinforce the tabs. While the putty is drying (about 20 minutes) use a razor blade to scrape the material flat and flush with the lug edges. To me, this was the most fun part because, at this point, the lug looks and feels hefty, strong and svelte--if not a bit of an ugly duckling inside! IMPORTANT! Between all steps, you want to check that the lug nuts and springs assemble properly...or the lug is toast. Two finished lugs. The lighter gray area shows where the razor blade smoothed the surface: When you're done, viewing from the outside, it's nearly impossible to see the old cracks. I believe that the lugs are stronger this way than as factory originals. I even reinforced the good lugs prior to rebuilding the drums. I hesitated at this point, but thought, screw it, I want to play these babies, and I don't want a lug snapping off when I need it most. Here are some samples of the finished product: Here are some perfectly good "peanut" B&B lugs that I strengthened so the drums could be played reliably: Hope this method works for you as it did for me!