ROGERS Londoner-Six outfit... photos

Discussion in 'Vintage Venue' started by EvEnStEvEn, Oct 22, 2018.

  1. SwivoNut

    SwivoNut DFO Master

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    XP-8s were made from 1979 up until 1984 when Rogers went out of business. They had clear interiors and no rerings and featured the same MemriLoc hardware as the Big Rs. They're great drums and a steal at that price.
     
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  2. bob

    bob DFO Master

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    even .... i'm no expert , but i have a 22x14 big r bass drum that sounds as good or better than any 22x14 i've played ... mine is also black
     
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  3. tommykat1

    tommykat1 DFO Master

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    As others have said, the snare is an import, but the other drums are 1980 XP8s from Monrovia. That was the short time that serial numbers were not used. $250 is a steal. Throw the snare in the trash on the way out.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2018
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  4. amosguy

    amosguy DFO Master

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    WHAT! Sell the snare for a tank of gas for the pickup drive home.
     
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  5. Roch

    Roch DFO Master

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    I picked up a set a while back..I posted about them, being the exact kit I owned over 30 years ago..They are great sounding drums..probably one of the most under valued sets on the market..I didn't appreciate them back in the 70's as I was young, inexperienced ...I sure love the sound now
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2018
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  6. rhythmace

    rhythmace Rhythmace

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    I read somewhere that Big R drums have the best chrome. Some consider the XP8 shells the best also. I am one that thinks the small toms needs RIMS mounts. You can certainly put any snare with the set. I would use a deep one though. My Big R bass drum sucked until I put a SK1 batter on it. Ace
     
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  7. EvEnStEvEn

    EvEnStEvEn ~Lounge Lizard~

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    I've read each & every reply with interest & appreciation gang, many thanks for the immense help!

    I drove to OKC and got 'em today, they look fine, no holes or funny stuff. a few scratches, no gouges, no chrome pitting but plenty of schumtz & grime to remove.

    It's indeed a Londoner Six outfit in piano black cortex and Yep, the badge appears to be the "no serial' version from 80-81. Kit's essentially all there with xp8 shells, alum FT legs & Memriloc hardware, tom mounts, arms & spurs.
    Just missing some T-rods & claws. please PM if ya got extras, I'll be looking for some.


    Stay tuned, final pics coming....
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2018
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  8. bob

    bob DFO Master

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    i have some spare t rods you can have .... might have a claw too ....
    send a pic. of the t rod and claw you need ....
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2018
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  9. bob

    bob DFO Master

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    do these look right ?
     

    Attached Files:

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  10. rhythmace

    rhythmace Rhythmace

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    Steven, if you don't end up getting RIMS mounts you might end up cutting the tubes shorter so they don't extend into the drum much more than necessary. Ace
     
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  11. 73Rogers

    73Rogers Well-Known Member

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    Before you cut the tubes, try sticking a rubber stopper from your local home depot in the end of the tube inside the tom. See how that sounds before you cut. While you're there, pick up a bottle of Howard's Feed and Wax. Put that on the inside of the shells. It's a mix of carnauba and beeswax that will protect and seal the interior (smells great too!). You're going to love these drums. Post pics!
     
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  12. tommykat1

    tommykat1 DFO Master

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    EvEn, you may need to end up doing both: cutting the tubes and putting cork or rubber stoppers inside. From the beginning, in 1980, I always felt that the drums were a bit "choked" but I couldn't figure out why. In a discussion with Tommy Wells a few years back, he talked about how the tube choking on both Rogers and Pearl in the late 70s (I think that's what he was endorsing) necessitated putting the toms in baskets. Soon after, RIMS mounts became popular.

    You'll find that when you hold an XP8 tom in your hand and hit it with a stick, it will sing sweetly and loudly. But, after mounting, it will be dry and choked, ESPECIALLY the 13" for some reason. (You may find you'll be tuning around that 13, as it has the narrowest tuning range, IMHO.)

    Cutting the tubes and corking them helped massively, but RIMS mounts or baskets would be even better.

    Note: Since I've had my drums since new, I didn't actually cut the original tubes! I bought some off eBay, and cut those. You'll find the XP8 hardware is reasonably priced on the Interwebs.

    Some pics, including a closeup of the tubes before being cut and corked:

    XP8 & Gina Close Up From back.jpg

    XP8 & Gina Zoomed.jpg

    XP10 & XP8 Collage.jpg
     
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  13. tommykat1

    tommykat1 DFO Master

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    First, I set the toms up where I want them, and lock the Memrilocs in position--these settings never change for me. Then I disassemble, and cut the tubes right to the edge of where they come through the tom holders on the interior of the shells. For corks, I think I used champagne corks. Or maybe it was sherry. Sheesh! I don't think wine corks have a big enough diameter!

    What we've discovered is the massive intrusion of metal tubes inside the drums chokes them pretty severely. Isolation mounts or baskets work the best, but cutting and corking as described works pretty darn well.

    Back in the day, there wasn't much thought given to this, plus the desired drum sound was more muted. Today, I think the preferred sound is wide open. Ironically, those 30-plus year old seasoned 8 ply New England rock maple shells with 45 degree bearing edges--measured on a perfectly flat table--are way ahead of their time, but the hardware, as advanced as it was with Memriloc innovation, interfered with the perfect sound.
     
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  14. BennyK

    BennyK DFO Master

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    Killer deal for killer drums !! A trophy for the Okie !!

    I love the yellowed interiors .... extra da-wooom .
     
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  15. Troyh

    Troyh Team DFO Staff Member Moderator

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    Nice score Steven. You guys are amazing!
     
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  16. EvEnStEvEn

    EvEnStEvEn ~Lounge Lizard~

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    I have a question about this confounded pipe inside the bass drum. I understand it's there to maintain the structural integrity of the shell under the weight of the toms, but do I really need it if I only use 1 or 2 toms? It's added weight and I'll never use the tri-tom configuration as shown in the Rogers Londoner Six catalog photo anyway.

    Should I cut the pipe completely off the chrome mount piece or is that a bad idea?
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2018
  17. amosguy

    amosguy DFO Master

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    NO, No, No. Even if you did, it would not be enough weight to matter in the long run.
     
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  18. rhythmace

    rhythmace Rhythmace

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    Leave the bass drum pipe as it is. It doesn't choke that drum anyway. I went to a tuning seminar at The Percussion Center and we found that the 13" needs to have the same tension on both heads to come alive. Ace
    P.S. It comes to around $100.00 for each tom, but Gary over at RIMS made a mounting plate just for Big R drums at the last. I like mine a lot.
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2018
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  19. K.O.

    K.O. DFO Master

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    I wonder if INDe iso mounts would work in place of the Memriloc parts? I know it would be a major overhaul since you'd also have to swap out the tom arms from tubes to L rods (on a platform using a one inch down post that would interface with the bracket on the bass drum) but, assuming the INDe XL mount would fit the original two hole pattern of the Memriloc tom brackets it would completely solve the resonance problem and also be completely and easily reversible. The INDe mount itself ought to adequately hide the one inch hole that would be lurking underneath it.

    Just another potential option.
     
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  20. SwivoNut

    SwivoNut DFO Master

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    Leave that internal pipe alone, it needs to be there. If you don't like the looks of all that plumbing showing through your reso head, put on a coated head like I did.
     
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