Tape vs Glue wrap installation

Discussion in 'The Builders Workshop' started by Salem street drums, Jan 25, 2019.

  1. Tommy D

    Tommy D Very well Known Member

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    The wrap over lap occurs under the throw off:

    [​IMG]
     
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  2. mlucas123

    mlucas123 Very well Known Member

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    The tape method is garbage. After Sam dies, you will never see a recommendation for it anywhere.
     
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  3. Ron_M

    Ron_M DFO Veteran

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    Good points. Now that I think about it, it's probably done more often to hide the seam, rather than hold it down. At least after the dark days of shrinking wraps. Those Ludwig rivets....
     
  4. SwivoNut

    SwivoNut DFO Master

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    I used Jammin' Sam's tape method and it failed big time. I followed the directions to the letter but it didn't hold. I had to remove the tape residue, then glue the ends with contact cement. The wrap was Sam's True Black Glass Glitter. The glass glitter wraps are quite a bit thicker than the sparkle and pearl wraps. Maybe the tape works OK on the thinner wraps.
     
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  5. jptrickster

    jptrickster DFO Master

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    I don't see any pro level, commercial or boutique manufactures using tape. Rest my case.
     
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  6. sksmith-1

    sksmith-1 Well-Known Member

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    I thought DW did on the original and Collector's Series drums. Also thought Pearl did on their wrapped pro level drums. Tama probably did as well.
    I don't if any of them do any longer, but pretty sure it was standard for a while (80's / 90's?).
    Steve
     
  7. jptrickster

    jptrickster DFO Master

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    Dw did it for a hot minute it was a mess. Pearl and Tama and a few other Imports did it as well, same results bubbling warping and coming apart at the seams . I was referring to pro level drums of today not back in the experimental stage. We all know what happens to the taped on wraps, leave it in the hot sun for 10 minutes, you’ll see the train wreck
     
  8. Rik_Everglade

    Rik_Everglade Very well Known Member

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    Pearl used to just tape the overlap, at least on the 1970's fiberglass drums. That worked perfectly for them. I'm debating this myself as I'm about to wrap a tom myself, Pearl fiberglass shell.
     
  9. DanRH

    DanRH Old guy, getting younger

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    I’ve tried the tape method on several projects, just because Sam insisted it’s so much better.

    For me, a BIG FAIL, every time! The seams lift. And I followed his procedure to the letter. I always have to reglue.
     
  10. GeeDeeEmm

    GeeDeeEmm Well-Known Member

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    Good post, RP.

    I like to use petroleum-based contact cement, especially considering how many wood-working sources cite long-term failure to bond with water-based cement. These bonding problems may not be the case with modern water-based cements, but there were certainly problems in the past. Regardless . . .

    For many years, my go-to contact cement has been WeldWood "Original" cement, which has yet to yield any bonding failures. So, I called Precision Drum Company and inquired about using Weldwood petroleum-based contact cement on my current recovering project. I was told that the use of petro-based cements is "no problem with pearl wraps," and that Delmar's recommendation of 3M-30NF is based upon state and federal air quality standards laws concerning non- or minimally-vented workplaces.


    I just completed rewrapping the first drum using the WeldWood "Original" contact cement, and it worked perfectly.

    GeeDeeEmm
     
  11. Salem street drums

    Salem street drums DFO Sponsor Sponsor

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    They told me the same. I ordered wrap for two snares and she advised me to buy the DAP product locally.....rather than buying the 3M from them. That way I could avoid having to buy an entire can of 3M for two drums.
     
  12. jptrickster

    jptrickster DFO Master

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    D4607E84-6726-49F5-8E5D-3D32C96C27EE.jpeg And when those taped seams fail lol
     
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  13. GeeDeeEmm

    GeeDeeEmm Well-Known Member

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    Oh, man. You just had to post a picture of one of the saddest periods in all of drum making. Please, please don't do that again. It breaks my heart. :crybaby::crybaby::crybaby::crybaby:

    GeeDeeEmm
     
  14. jptrickster

    jptrickster DFO Master

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    And that was one of the nicer ones lol
     
  15. K.O.

    K.O. DFO Master

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    The saddest thing about that is that wrap is actual chrome plated steel, pretty unlikely that it was going to shrink and pull apart at the seam the way the plastic wraps were so those rivets were pointless on that drum (pretty sure Ludwig was still gluing the wrap on the shells at that point not just taping the seams...but the plastic wraps they were using weren't dimensionally stable).
     
  16. jptrickster

    jptrickster DFO Master

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    Here's another sad moment
    007 (143).JPG
     
  17. bellbrass

    bellbrass DFO Master

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    Sam bought a ton of that tape, and he trapped me on the phone once and practically refused to sell me wrap unless I bought his tape. He's great to deal with, until you get into the "tape vs. glue" conversation.
    Glue all the way; it's the only way.
     
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  18. REF

    REF Member

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    I've used both glue - Contact cement and heavy duty spray adhesives - and tape - FastCap Speedtape, and it's a monster. I used the tape on the entire piece of veneer, not just edges and seam. Not sure how others have used or recommend but, that Speedtape is quite permanent.
     
  19. GeeDeeEmm

    GeeDeeEmm Well-Known Member

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    Hmm. I guess I've been out of the loop when it comes to modern two-sided tapes. I wasn't aware of the SpeedTape at all, but it looks very interesting:

    https://www.fastcap.com/product/speedtape
    [​IMG]

    I'm thinking, based on the company videos, that using it the way you did - 100% coverage - should yield great results - and especially if used over a factory "lacquer" finish. I'll have to check into the SpeedTape.

    I'm wondering if the problems experienced with tape has been the result of (a) using it on bare, untreated wood, and (b) using the tape only at the seams. Using tape on bare wood seems like a formula for failure because the pressure-sensitive tape makes contact only with the "raised" grains and not with the entire surface. I'm curious if heating the tape/wrap would give the tape a deeper grip on the wood's surface. I'd also think that if the bare wood was treated with a grain sealer before wrapping, it would be more likely to offer closer to 100% adherence.

    I'll still use contact cement for wrapping, but I'm inclined now to at least buy some SpeedTape and do some experimentation on some leftover wrap and bare wood. This could be a fun project, and might lead me to finding a tape method that I could trust. We'll see.

    Thanks for tolerating my meandering mind and tossing around some thoughts.

    GeeDeeEmm
     
  20. REF

    REF Member

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    I redid a set of inexpensive drums for a friend. The original wrap just had tape at the seam. I used the Speed Tape on bare wood. I wasn't sure how it would work. I first tried some tape on bare wood to see how it would hold. The tape held so well I just threw out the block of wood. I couldn't yank it off and wasn't going to use solvents. I was impressed. The tape has a very sound glue on it that really molded to every aspect of the bare wood.

    I redid the set in a very thin mahogany veneer I got off ebay. It has a glossy paper-type backing of some kind. I've not seen it before. Six years later the set looks good, though. It's just a house set. It doesn't get exposed to straight sun but, I wouldn't see a problem for an outside gig.
     

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