final sand and/or polish after lacquer

[blueshadow]

Put a couple coats of Minwax Lacquer on a shell and it looks pretty good, I have some 300 or 400 can't remember should I give it a light sand, or polish with??? Its pretty smooth looking, would have liked to have used deft or watco but Lowe's doesn't carry it here. The Minwax seems to have worked well though.

 

[blueshadow]

Decided to just leave it and use it as is. I think it turned out well. The drum was too blue before added some turquoise and re-clear coated

edit: this is what it looked like before
[sharedmedia=core:attachments:188458]

 

[2000dan2000]

if it looks good to you, then leave good enough alone! I'll put a couple of coats of lacquer on, scuffing with a maroon scotch-brite between coats. For final finish, light sand with 400 or 600, re-coat, rinse and repeat until you get a nice level finish.

edit: just be very careful to not sand too deep and get into the color coats

 

[blueshadow]

Its a little darker that the other drums but closer than the dye job I tried a few months back and this is a Ludwig instead of Keller. I think in a dark club it will be fine.

 

[2000dan2000]

a whole lot harder to lighten than to darken so... leave well enough alone and enjoy!

 

[CaptainCrunch]

I've done a fair amount of guitar refinishing, and did a tinted blonde Gretsch kit in nitro lacquer. The Minwax is good stuff, as is the Watco. Deft is a different thing - it's designed to not yellow or check/craze, and many people have reported that it never quite feels fully cured and gums up sandpaper.

When I've done it, I started with 600 grit, then gone up through 800, 1000, 1200, and 2000, then a fancypants automotive polish.
It feels like pure masochism once you get to those higher grits, but there's an absolute mirror finish at the other end, so that helps.
I'd rather do 10 guitars than one drumkit, though. Probably a smaller total surface area, too.

http://www.reranch.com/basics.htm

 

[Drumbuilder123]

In the future if you think a stain or dye is too dark try a rag wet with lacquer thinner. you can rub it off a little or scrub it almost all the way off. then if you want to adjust your stain color you can.
Also, My hometown Sherwin Williams can help match a stain. their stains actually use the same tints as their regular paints.
Another trick if you have a spray gun is to put stain in your clear coats. I use 1/2 oz. per quart. that way if your color is too light you can add more stain a little at a time to match you existing stain.

Lane

 

[green glass drum]

In the future if you think a stain or dye is too dark try a rag wet with lacquer thinner. you can rub it off a little or scrub it almost all the way off. then if you want to adjust your stain color you can.
Also, My hometown Sherwin Williams can help match a stain. their stains actually use the same tints as their regular paints.
Another trick if you have a spray gun is to put stain in your clear coats. I use 1/2 oz. per quart. that way if your color is too light you can add more stain a little at a time to match you existing stain.

Lane

You know, that's funny. I was just talking to a guy in South Carolina today, and he also puts color in the clear.
Wait a minute. It's the same guy. ALRIGHT. I love the concept of tinting the clear coat.

 

[blueshadow]

Played them out last night and very happy, the floor tom while not an exact match is at least in the ballpark now.

 

[JazzDrumGuy]

That's pretty good looking from here, certainly after a few beers....good job!

 

[blueshadow]

That's pretty good looking from here, certainly after a few beers....good job!

After a few beers everything is amber!

 

[audiochurch]

they look great!!

 

[retrosonic]

BlueShadow.....your Floor tom looks superb....excellent work.